2015 年 06 月 25 日 , , , ,

炎熱的夏天即將到來,面對毒辣的陽光與紫外線攻擊,許多人為了防止曬傷或曬黑,都已開始準備各式防曬產品嚴陣以待。但在挑選防曬乳時應該張大眼睛,看清楚包裝上標示,某些化學成分若超過標準含量,可能造成皮膚紅腫不適、提早老化,甚至增加罹患癌症的風險。

在剖析防曬乳中不良物質之前,先來看看防曬乳的種類。一般而言,防曬乳依照是否能滲透進入皮膚,以及防曬乳阻擋紫外線的方式,分為物理性與化學性兩種:

物理性防曬乳(Physical sunscreen)

物理性防曬乳代表性成分為天然礦物,如:二氧化鈦(TiO2)、和氧化鋅(ZnO)。

其原理是利用覆蓋在皮膚上的物質阻擋或反射光線,達到阻隔紫外線的效果。而其分子量較大不會皮膚吸收,是敏感性肌膚與嬰幼兒的最佳選擇。

但缺點是,物理性防曬乳質地較厚,使用完後膚色會有略帶白色有如上妝般的光澤,有可能阻塞毛孔,且需要卸妝。

化學性防曬乳(Chemical sunscreen)

化學性防曬乳代表性成分為一些合成成份,如:水楊酸鹽(SALICYLATES)、肉桂酸鹽(CINNAMATES)、辛環烯烷 (OCTYLCRENE)、苯甲酮(BENZOPHENONE)、鄰氨基苯甲酸鹽(ANTHRANILATE)、PARSOL 1789(AVOBENZONE)。

防曬原理是利用吸收紫外線的方式,把紫外線與化學防曬乳結合並過濾紫外線,減輕對皮膚的傷害。但也因為吸收,因此化學防曬乳可能導致皮膚過敏等不良反應,加上這些化學成分長時間暴露在陽光下,可能產生損害細胞的自由基。

所以為了避免不良成分所帶給皮膚的傷害與不適,以下介紹6種防曬乳中可能出現的危害物質,讓你聰明挑選品質好的防曬乳!

1) 二苯甲酮 (Oxybenzone)

防曬產品中的二苯甲酮含量應該不超過 6%。它的功用是擋住 UVB 跟 UVA2, 也是很常見的化學性防曬成分。但二苯甲酮的侵略性較強,當被肌膚吸收時,可能引起類似濕疹的過敏反應,或是光過敏。

2) 甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯 (Octinoxate)

作用是以吸收陽光中的中波紫外線(UVB),保護皮膚免於其傷害,是目前最常廣泛使用的 UVB 防曬乳。甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯對皮膚刺激性小,但卻會擾亂荷爾蒙、造成皮膚老化,並產生自由基破壞皮膚細胞。

3) 棕櫚酸維他命A(A Retinyl Palmitate 或Vitamin A Palmitate)

作用是防止紫外線所造成的皮膚老化,為視黃醇( retinol )與棕櫚酸( palmitic acid)的結合,當暴露在紫外線下,視黃醇會分解並產生具破壞性的有毒細胞,會破壞 DNA,並可能導致癌症。

美國 FDA 研究顯示,棕櫚酸維他命 A 可能加速皮膚腫瘤細胞發展,所以當選擇防曬產品時,請避開過量的棕櫚酸維他命 A 成分。

4) 甲基水楊醇或胡莫柳酯(Homosalate)

可以吸收 UVB295~315 波段,但有研究表明甲基水楊醇對激素有微弱影響,產生有毒代謝產物,要求用量不得超過 10%。

5) 奧克立林 (Octocrylene)

通常和其他 UV 吸收劑聯合使用,以達到較高的 SPF 值,但奧克立林暴露在 UV 光下,吸收光線會釋放出氧自由基,可能破壞細胞導致突變。

6) 對羥基苯甲酸酯防腐劑 (Paraben Preservatives)

對羥基苯甲酸酯防腐劑具有急性和慢性的副作用,可能誘發過敏反應,甚至破壞 DNA。

此化合物的使用曾出現許多爭議,過去有人質疑含有此物質的化妝品,是造成乳癌發病機率不斷上升的原因,但確切的關係卻未獲正式證實。

參考資料:6 Scary Sunscreen Ingredients and 6 Safe SPF Products

(封面圖片來源:the half-blood prince via photopin cc

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